Hola friends and relatives,
Yet another unforgettable day. Where to begin? Last night at bedtime we received the news from our innkeeper's daughter that our bus from Puno to Arequipa would be leaving at 5 AM instead of 6 AM in order to avoid getting stuck in the city of Juliaca due to the general strike protesting a law just passed by the Congress granting raises and more benefits for the poorly-regarded bureaucratic federal employees of Peru. To this end, we detoured down a dirt road undergoing major reconstruction, in the dark, for 25 to 30 miles bypassing Juliaca. This road would be a challenge for a Humvee and we were in a full-sized tour bus. The fact that the mud ruts were frozen is probably the only reason that we are not still out there overturned somewhere in the vastness of the altiplano. Finally reaching the paved road to Arequipa, we stopped mid-morning at a big lagoon for 10 minutes, not nearly long enough to to pee and also enjoy the flamingos, Andean geese and ducks and Lord knows what other myriad of birds filling the lagoon.
Along the way, we saw numerous small groups of vicunas, an endangered species whose fleece is as precious as gold (well, almost).
At our last scenic stop, "Misti", one of the three volcanos around Arequipa and the symbol of Arequipa was looming before us!
Arriving in Arequipa near noon, our progress was blocked by rocks in the main thoroughfare and a wall of marching protesters.
Attempting to avoid all this, our driver hung a U-turn and headed the wrong way down a narrow one-way street at high speed. Holy crap! Confronted by a solid wall of oncoming traffic, we somehow backed up-hill and around a corner and miraculously ended up safely at our hotel.
Shortly thereafter, the riot police marched past our door in face shields and full-body armor on their way to the main plaza. Later on, we strolled over there to find the plaza lined with walls of police and saw smoke and possibly teargas across from us. (See two pics above.) Wisely, we decided to pay a visit toJuanita the Ice Maiden, a young Inca girl sacrificed to the mountain gods about 500 years ago and found in the crater of a volcano above Arequipa in 1995. Then we ate some tuna (cactus fruit) and walked around plaza de Armas.
Followed by shopping and more shopping, especially at the Ekeko Mall. An Ekeko is a kind of Andean wishing doll that you give to someone you like. That person then hangs miniature versions of things they are wishing to have, like houses, money, shoes, you name it, on the doll. This Patio del Ekeko contained about five floors of larger-than-life ekekos and wonderful Peruvian art and handicrafts. Fabulous.
We finished the day by dining lavishly at an upscale restaurant,Chicha, owned by Peru's most famous chef, Gaston Acurio...serving excellent ceviche and Pisco drinks. We are finally about to "hit the sack" and don't have to set the alarm for 4am. Halleluiah!